The Good Dog Journal

Games Good Dogs Play: Say Please!

2009-11-07T13:30:00.001-06:00

Games Good Dogs Play: Say Please!

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Canine to Five Howl O Ween Party

2009-10-07T13:35:00.002-05:00

NOTE: I am not at all affiliated with these folks, I'm just passing this on.

DETROIT – Spooky pooches and their owners can get dressed-up and have a blast at Canine to Five Detroit's Howl-ween party on October 25, 1 – 4 p.m. The event will include contests for spookiest costume, owner and pet look-alike costume, funniest costume and most creative costume. There will also be fun activities for your furry friends such as bobbing for balls, biscuit in a haystack, and trick and treat.

Howl-ween is $5 per dog in a costume and $10 per dog without a costume. Admission includes entry fees for the contests and activities, and access to Canine to Five's 4,500 square feet of indoor dog park and 8,000 square feet of secured outdoor dog park space.

"Howl-ween is another great way to enjoy the season while spending time with your dog and meeting other dog owners and new friends," said Liz Blondy, Canine to Five owner. "We've had great success with our organized dog events, such as drinking with dogs this summer, and I expect Howl-ween to be a lot of fun."

Canine to Five is Metro Detroit's only dog daycare, boarding, and grooming facility, located in the heart of Detroit's Historic Midtown Neighborhood. The facilities includes 4,500 square feet of cage-free, indoor climate-controlled play space and 8,000 square feet of secured, fenced in, well-lit outdoor play space, separate play area for puppies, small dogs, and quiet time, and one dozen large secure kennels for our overnight guests.

Canine to Five: Detroit Dog Daycare is located at 3443 Cass Avenue, Detroit, just south of Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd. It's regular business hours are 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. with the exception of the dog park days and the puppy socials.

For more information, visit www.detroitdogdaycare.com.

Games Good Dogs Play: Leave It!

2009-10-05T08:49:00.001-05:00

Games Good Dogs Play: Leave It!

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Dog First Aid & CPR Class

2009-09-28T17:04:00.001-05:00

FYI
The Bull Terrier Club of Metro Detroit is hosting a
Red Cross Dog First Aid & CPR Class on Sunday October 25th, 2009

To be held at:
Flushing Township Offices
6524 N. Seymour Road
Flushing, MI 48433
Time: 1-4 pm
Cost: $40.00 per person
Contact: Diane Thomas at: 1-810-845-2901 by October 7, 2009 if you would like to attend. There will be a limit of 40 people
Each participant will receive from Red Cross a manual and DVD covering what you learned during the presentation.

My Babies are Growing Up

2009-09-04T07:59:00.002-05:00

This weekend my daughter and her little dog are competing in their first agility trial! Check out the PDF link for more information if you'd like to come out and cheer us on! We'll be there on Saturday doing "Jumper" and "Standard".
(it's so exciting!!)

Pet Training 101: How do I Teach My Dog to Love His Crate?

2009-07-29T14:45:00.001-05:00

Pet Training 101: How do I Teach My Dog to Love His Crate?

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Pet Training 101: How do I Housebreak My Dog?

2009-07-21T14:26:00.001-05:00

Pet Training 101: How do I Housebreak My Dog?

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Get Your Money's Worth from Your Trainer

2009-06-24T11:12:00.002-05:00

Check out this article (written by me) at Examiner. com

Get Your Money's Worth from Your Trainer

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Upcoming Agility in Michigan

2009-04-14T10:30:00.002-05:00

The following TWO messages were posted at the MI Dog Event Info yahoo group. I am just passing them along.

If your schedule is clear and you are looking for some great fun with your 17" or under dog, have been doing agility and want to check out a venue you have yet to try, come on up to Pine Meadow's farm in South Boardman, Michigan (East of Traverse City) and try Teacup Agility (TDAA-Teacup Dog Agility Association) at our trial this weekend. Our judge is Margaret Henderschot from Ohio. She will also be doing a short distance workshop on Friday afternoon (space is limited but we may be able to squeeze in another or 2) plus two games to try out your new distance skills. Saturday and Sunday will have 2 standard and 2 games each day-more distance games. Come and join the fun.

If you are not familiar with TDAA, it is the ONLY venue I know of where you can register your dag at the trial site and RUN your dog the same weekend. We will also have sufficient judges on site to measure your dogs for their jump height card. It is the TDAA Trifecta-Register, Run and Get your Jump height card in one fun weekend.

As always, we accept day of trial entries, so if your plans change and grandma's birthday party has been postponed come and enjoy the fun. If you have never tried TDAA you may also run your dog FEO (For Exhibition Only) just to get a taste of the smaller equipment and closer quarters.
In any case we always have fun.

For more information, please contact me at beekeeper@tm.net and I can send the premium. In case you get hooked on this venue, we have 4 other trials scheduled for this year, also.

Coleene Davidson
Trial Secretary

Also

Starting in May outside on grass in a fully fenced 100'X100' ring located in
Milan Mi
Instructor: Kari Morningstar

May 4th Monday 6:30 to 7:30 Intro Agility
Dogs will be introduced to the obstacles at low heights, learn targeting and
foundation work.

May 6th Wed. 6:30 to 7:30 Foundation/Intro Agility
This class will be geared towads those that want to compete later. You will be
working on foundation,ground work, Targeting and introduced to the obstacles.

May 7th Thursday 6:00 to 7:00pm Agility !!
Dogs must know all the obstacles. Dogs and handlers will be working on their
handling skills and sequences and should be doing full heights on all obstacles.

May 7th Thursday 7:15 to 8:15 Competition Agility
This class is for the dogs that are already competing. Dogs and handlers will be
working on advance sequences and course work.

If enough interest I can set up day classes. I also offer private and semi
private lessons.
For more info or to register contact Kari Morningstar @ 734 439-3811

Detroit Pet Training Examiner: In Defense of Pet Breeders

2009-04-14T09:25:00.001-05:00

Detroit Pet Training Examiner: In Defense of Pet Breeders

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Who's the Boss? Establishing Pack Leadership

2009-02-12T14:09:00.005-06:00

Many behavioral problems are rooted in pack leadership issues and often disappear once the dog has firmly established his place at the bottom of the pack. Unfortunately, humans don't think like dogs so owners often don't associate many dominant behaviors with dominance. It can look like affection, even submission, so it's very common for a dog to be confused about his place in the household based on mixed signals from the owner. If you want a well-behaved dog, it is imperative that your dog knows that he is the low man on the totem pole, otherwise you face the risk that your dog will begin competing for position with you, other household members, children and guests.

Humans and Dogs, Differing Points of View

Most people I talk to about pack leadership are concerned that their dog will be sad if he is forced to the bottom rung of the social ladder. But dogs don't look at it like we do. Being a leader is hard work and most dogs are perfectly happy to let someone else take the job over. Dogs are put into alot of situations they don't understand, therefore it's best to let the humans, who created the situations and understand them, handle it.

When your dog looks up at you with those puppy eyes, he's not necessarily sad. Those eyes evolved as a survival trait to keep us humans taking good care of our dogs even after they ate our favorite chair. It's a defense mechanism and, at times, a weapon. If you're dog isn't eating, is being lethargic and doesn't want to play, he may be sad (or sick) but if our dogs were deeply sad every time they looked at us like that, they would all need puppy prozac.

A canine pack leader is going to try to keep the status quo, he's going to challenge invaders, freak out about major (and sometimes minor) changes in the environment and maybe even be really nervous when he leaves the terretory and people he's responsible for. If you take all that pressure off him he will be happier, even if that submissive look he gives you brings you to tears. Trust me.

Behavior and Leadership

Dogs who are struggling with their perceived leadership role in the household may exhibit many behaviors that seem very practical from the dog's point of view.

Marking Territory In the pack, the dominant dog marks his territory, it's just the way of things. He is saying, "My pack lives here and if you don't like it, find me and we'll discuss it!". If there is a person who lives in the house who has an ambiguous place in the pack or who the dog perceives to be a threat to his position in the pack, the dog may feel inclined to pee on that person's stuff as well. If your dog is pretty much house trained but is marking around the house or specifically marking some member of the household's belongings, you could be dealing with a pack leadership issue.

Aggression In the wild, canines approaching adulthood may challenge the pack leader for his position. If they are successful they assume the leadership role but may still squabble with their peers over it for awhile until things are settled. If there is no decisive victory one way or another, a canine will bide his time and repeat the challenge periodically until he is successful. If your dog is being aggressive, guarding food, comfy chairs, toys and other things, or growling or barking at you instead of obeying commands, you could have a pack leadership issue. Remember also that the pack leader is responsible for the defense of the pack. It's not surprising then that he should attack the occasional unauthorized (by him) visitor! Your dominant dog may also periodically attack family members who are behaving in ways that seem to him to be challenging or dominating.

Anxiety Being the pack leader is hard work, especially if various members of your pack aren't acting appropriately submissive. This could lead to various anxiety issues. Separation anxiety is one of these because the pack leader should know where his pack is at all times, otherwise how is he to protect them?

Barking Since the pack leader is responsible for maintaining the security of the pack, it's not surprising that he should bark to warn the pack of danger and continue barking to scare away the threat until the danger is passed and since he's the boss, it is even more urgent that he continue barking if you just don't get it!

Begging and Stealing Food: The pack leader gets what he wants. It's only natural that if he comes across a delicious slice of pizza sitting there unattended he's going to think it's his very right to grab it and take off with it. Likewise he's going to expect you to turn over a tidbit if he stares at you expectantly long enough.

Common Submissive Human Behaviors

Many of our affectionate human behaviors can be seen as submissive to a dog and can lead him to believe that you actually want him to take on the leadership role, or leave him terribly confused about exactly what it is he's supposed to be doing.

Since puppies often lick the muzzle of the dominant dog as an show of appeasement and to ask for a share of the food, kissing your dog on the mouth can confuse the heck out of him (and is a good way for a kid to get bit, especially if there are also hugs involved so the poor confused fellow can't back away from the strange confusing human).

In a pack situation, the dominant canine often goes on patrol, sometimes with other members of the pack. When they return, everyone greets the pack leader first (often licking the muzzle) so when your dog is the first person you greet when you come in the door, you are affirming that you are submissive to him. You should ignore your dog when you come home and greet other family members first then call the dog over for some attention.

The pack leader gets the best of everything including the best spots to lay down. You will often find the leader of a wild canine pack sitting on the highest perch, looking down over his subjects. By allowing your dog to sit on the furniture or lay on your bed, especially if he is positioned so that his head is higher than yours, you are affirming his status as pack leader.

The pack leader also gets the best food. If another canine is eating and the pack leader decides he wants some, the other canine will immediately move aside to allow the pack leader to eat. If you pause in your meal and feed your dog from your plate, you are affirming his place as pack leader.

The pack leader always goes first. He must because it's his job to challange any threats and protect his pack. So again, if you let your dog pull ahead of you on the leash, you're allowing him to assert his dominance.

Walk the Dominant Walk

Maintaining pack leadership with your dog is hard work and it's not always fun. Many people got their dog thinking it was going to be a cuddly plaything. It's especially difficult to teach kids to maintain pack leadership, but it's important that every family member learns how to behave like a pack leader and maintain consistancy.

Obedience: Obedience training is paramount and make sure everyone in the family practices frequently. Be firm and consistant. Make sure that you give the message that you expect obedience every time. Correct your dog with a firm no (and a leash correction only if necessary) when he doesn't obey and then make him do it. Reward immediate complience with praise and the occasional treat.

Always go first: Train your dog to wait at the door, at the stairs and at any opening and allow you to go first. It helps to teach sit and stay and/or down and stay first so your dog has an idea about not moving on command. When out walking, if your dog pulls ahead on the leash reverse direction and move away quickly so you're always out front. He'll get the idea eventually. You should be walking your dog daily, for so many reasons!

Control the Food: Never give your dog food unless he has earned it. When it is time to feed your dog, make him sit and stay while you prepare the food. Then put it down and make him hold his stay for a few seconds till you tell him it's okay to eat it. Also, make your dog earn his treats. Make him sit, lay down, or do a cute trick before he gets any snacks. If you want to feed him a treat from the table, set it aside and make him work for it after everyone else is done eating.

Make him Earn Everything: (Dogs who learn this trick learn lots of tricks!) including pets, bellyrubs, being allowed on the sofa, a walk, a ride in the car, a raucus game of fetch or tug of war ALL must be earned by following a command or two from you. If your dog brings you a toy or pushes at your hand for pets, ignore him until he stops and then you can call him over for attention. It should always be on your terms.

Don't Greet the Dog First: When you come home, the dog should be the last person you greet when you come home. If you live alone, ignore the dog while you take off your coat and shoes and hang up your keys and then call him over when you're ready to relax.

The Canine Sidekick

Female dogs especially (but male dogs as well sometimes) may decide to be the "second in command" to a dominant dog or person in the household and this can cause a whole range of new problems. She may not listen to anyone but the person she has decided is top man (or woman) and may guard the person, showing aggression toward her master's spouse or children. In this case, it is very important that other members of the household maintain pack leadership behaviors and that the object of the dog's adoration display behaviors toward other family members that will give the dog the idea that they are more dominant. For example, not allowing the dog on the bed or sofa, but moving over to allow family members on; greeting other family members first; insisting that all other family members finish eating before feeding the dog. It is also important that the object of adoration not be the only person performing doggie care duties. Everyone should take turns walking, feeding and grooming the dog so that he knows that everyone is the boss.

Different Strokes for Different Dogs

Although I have used "him" and "he" throughout this article, don't think that only male dogs assert their dominance, female dogs do too and if you have a male dog and a female dog they may both assert their dominance and get along just fine doing it.

Not every dog tries to be the boss of the house. Some dogs take on the dominant role just because there is no strong leader in the house and that is an unacceptable way for a dog to live. Some dogs will be submissive no matter what. All dogs will be more comfortable, safer and happier in the long run if you take on the dominance role and allow them to be what you really want them to be, your pet. (not the boss!)

Housebreaking Made Easy

2009-01-17T14:11:00.000-06:00

Housebreaking isn't rocket science, but it does take time, patience and diligence. Housebreaking is most often a puppy thing which makes it difficult because puppies are excitable and have small bladders. Sometimes it's an adult dog thing, perhaps your recent adoption has never been inside a house before or a major change in your household has your adult dog regressing. Regardless of the situation, the methods are pretty much the same and results are just as reliable. You can expect your dog to get the idea within the first week and to be reasonably trustworthy by the end of the first month.

Is it medical? If your previously housebroken dog has begun making inappropriate messes, take him to the vet first to make sure there isn't an infection or another medical issue that could be causing his uncharacteristic behavior.

The Right Tools for the Job

As with any job, there are a few tools of the trade that make housebreaking easier. Have these on hand from day one and housebreaking your dog will be a breeze.

1. A crate will keep your dog confined when you can't watch him. Because dogs instinctively avoid soiling their nesting area, most dogs can be relied upon not to have accidents in their crates. Please see my article about crate training your dog. If you do not want to use a crate, you should still have a small spot to confine your dog in, even if you use a tether.

2. A 6 foot leash is required for obvious reasons. During the training period you should leave the leash on your dog whenever he isn't confined so you can get him to his potty area quickly. You will have to go out with him for the first week or two.

3. Choose a relief station for your dog. If you are training your dog to use a potty pad then this will be his relief station. Otherwise, select an area of the yard about 10 x 10 feet for your dog to use as his relief station. You may want to mark this area with stones or other edging or cover it with mulch or pea gravel to distinguish it from the rest of the yard. Your dog should only have one relief station. If you are training your dog to a potty pad you cannot also train him to the yard and vice versa because it will just confuse him. If you want your dog to go outside once he's trained to the potty pad, bring a pad with you when you go out.

4. A jar of treats should be kept at the relief station so you can give your dog a treat the minute he goes potty. Don't wait till after you get back inside to give him a treat because at that point you don't know what your dog is thinking about and you can't be sure what he thinks he's being rewarded for.

5. A regular feeding schedule is important to housebreaking. Your dog should receive his food at the same time every day according to the schedule recommended by your veterinarian and he should have access to his food dish for only 15 minutes to a half hour. Free feeding is not recommended during housebreaking. You can anticipate when your dog may need to defecate based on the 8-10 hours it takes for his food to digest. Keep in mind that meals may get things moving too. Water should be offered more often and you can figure he will need to urinate about a half hour after he drinks.

6. Keep a notebook near the door so that you can keep a journal of each time your dog goes potty, inside or outside. This will help you learn his schedule and anticipate when he will need to go outside.

With these things in place, you are now ready to housebreak your dog.

Watch and Confine

Watch and confine is a simple concept that makes housebreaking easy. Your dog should be watched at all times during this period in a situation that allows you to quickly get ahold of him and take him outside to go potty. If you can't watch him, he needs to be confined to a small area, preferably a crate.

Every time your dog goes potty in the house he learns that it is okay to do so. You must catch your dog in the act in order to break this habit. You cannot punish him if the mess is discovered later because his mind has moved to something else and you cannot determine exactly what he thinks you're punishing him for at that time. If you point to a pile of poo and smack him, he may simply learn to hide the poo better next time.

When your dog squats to do his business in the house, say "No" loudly and firmly and grab his leash quickly. This should startle him into aborting the mission (though it doesn't always). Then quickly rush him to his relief station, point to it and say "Go potty" then wait. It could be awhile until he calms down enough to try again. When he does, praise him and give him a treat from the jar you have there at his relief station.

Watch for signals from your dog (circling, sniffing) but don't wait for them. Take your dog to his relief station when he first wakes up in the morning, before and after every meal and any time he has been confined for any length of time. Point to the spot, say "Go potty" and give him a treat when he does.

If your dog absolutely refuses to go potty at his relief station no matter how long you wait, consult your vet about stimulating bowel movements. She may supply you with a suppository. Make sure you ask her to explain how to use it and ask any questions you may have.

Remember that constancy is key in housebreaking and all training is consistency. You must catch your dog every time he goes indoors and at first, reward him every time he goes in his relief station. Soon you can begin phasing out rewards. You should be able to trust your dog a little more after about a week, but still keep a close eye on him and if he has any accidents go back to square one.

If you have any problems, you can consult a trainer or leave me a comment and I'll follow up.

The Legacy of Puppy Mills

2009-01-05T09:12:00.016-06:00

What is a Puppy Mill?

A puppy mill is a business where dogs are kept and bred in large quantities specifically for the pet trade. These animals are not pets. They are often kept in cages and bred until they die. Most of their offspring are sold to pet stores, though a few may be kept for further breeding. Those that have obvious deformities or don't sell for other reasons are often destroyed or may be dumped at an animal shelter. Breeding matches are often made for appearance, if that much consideration is given and potential parents are rarely assessed with regard to health or temperament.

What is the Difference Between a Puppy Mill and a Reputable Breeder?

In contrast, most reputable breeders keep their dogs as pets, working dogs, athletes or show dogs, providing for their health and comfort, training them and giving them lots of attention. The personal attention these dogs gets allows the breeder to select for temperament, intelligence and health. Reputable breeders keep careful records and should be able to tell you not only who a puppy's mother and father are, but who their grandparents and even great grandparents are. Because of this, a breeder can identify which health issues might be a problem for the puppy in the future, if any. Reputable breeders often have their puppies tested for any possible heriditary problems. Those puppies that don't meet standards of health, appearance and temperment are usually neutered and sold at a lower cost while those who do meet these standards are sold for more and often are not neutered so that you have the option to breed them.

Because these breeders have an emotional investment in their animals, they will often make you sign a contract promising to bring your puppy back to them if you need to give him up for any reason. Reputable breeders charge more because they spend more money on preventative medicine than puppy mill breeders do. They also have fewer litters and so fewer puppies to sell because they are more concerned about the health of the mother.

Buying From Puppy Mills Hurts Millions of Dogs

Some people want to buy puppy mill puppies to save them. But in so doing they are supporting an industry thatcauses endless suffering.
* By breeding unhealthy animals, they create more unhealthy animals that may need to be put to sleep in the future by owners who have already come to love them.
* By breeding huge quantities of dogs without taking responsibility for finding them homes, they are adding to the growing problem of homeless pets. Animal shelters are already over capacity all over the country and puppy mills just add to the problem.
* Puppymill breeding methods are harmful to the health of the mother dogs, some of whom are forced to give birth three or more times a year until they die while often getting inadequate food and exercise.

While it may be heartbreaking to turn away from that puppy who needs you, there are many more in animal shelters who need you just as badly. Simple economics says that if everyone refused to buy puppy mill puppies, the industry would crumble. Faced with dozens of unwanted and unsaleable puppies, puppy mill operators would soon be seeking another line of work and those puppies would most likely end up in the shelter for you to adopt anyway.

Puppy Mill Puppies Often Have Serious Health and Behavior Problems

As a trainer, I have learned to identify puppy mill puppies by the behavioral challenges they present. Many puppies bred in puppy mills display psychological issues related to their early upbringing and because these are often beyond the scope of normal puppy behavior, they can be a challenge to address.

One of the most common issues is "dirty dog" syndrome. This is a dog that has not developed the natural inclination to keep his den clean. If a puppy is born in a cage and kept in a cage through his early development, he, his mother, and his litter mates are all forced to soil their den and soon get used to it. It becomes a normal behavior. Later when this puppy goes home with his new owner, housebreaking can be very difficult because most housebreaking methods depend on the natural desire that all dogs have for a nice, clean den. Once this has been essentially beaten out of a dog, it's very hard to get back.

Because a puppy mill breeder's main interest is producing and selling lots of puppies, their puppies may be taken away from their mother too soon. If a puppy is taken from his mother and siblings before he is at least 8 weeks old, he does not learn important skills of doggy etiquette. These dogs often do not have bite inhibition- an important skill that his mother would have taught him if she had the chance. This means that the puppy will not have the sense that his bite can hurt people by accident. Puppies often use their mouths during play. Dogs who never learned bite inhibition can seriously hurt other dogs and people without meaning to. The law prohibits the transport of puppies for sale at less than 56 days of age, but the sooner a mother is relieved of her puppies, the sooner she will be ready to breed again.

Because puppy mill breeders keep their dogs in cages they often must share with several other dogs. This can lead to competition for food and space causing puppies to develop resource aggression later in life and to be fearful of other dogs. They can also be fearful of humans since they have limited contact with their human caretakers at important developmental stages.

Puppy mill breeders sell their puppies to pet stores through dealers and health histories of their puppies and their parents are often unavailable. Those who show obvious problems are destroyed or surrendered and the people who buy their siblings are not warned about possible issues. Often breeder females are repeatedly bred even after they have shown signs of illness and this can have an effect on the physical and mental development of their pups.

How Can I be Sure I Don't Buy from a Puppy Mill?

Never buy from a pet store, flea market or webstore. Most pet stores obtain their puppies from puppy mills because it's cheaper and because most reputable breeders will not sell their puppies through a pet store- they want to meet the people they are selling to. Some pet stores feature dogs from animal shelters and this is a great opportunity to adopt a homeless animal. (If they make this claim, they should be able to tell you what shelter they are representing and they should provide you with that shelter's adoption application form. If in doubt, call the shelter to verify what the pet store is telling you.) If you want to be absolutely sure that your purchase isn't supporting puppy mills, go to your local animal shelter. If you are looking for a specific breed, they can refer you to a breed-specific rescue organization.

Ask to see your puppy's parents. If available, ask to examine their pedigrees. Handle the dogs to get an idea if they are used to human handling and that they appear healthy. Dogs who are not used to human handling may have been purchased just for breeding purposes.

Ask to see the area where your puppy and his parents live. If it is dirty, outdoors or separate from the rest of the family, use great caution. Puppies who are used to living in dirty conditions or outdoors can have housebreaking issues.

If the breeder claims that the puppies have had shots or have seen a veterinarian, ask for verification on paper. Everyone makes this claim. You want proof. Your vet will want to add this to your puppy's medical record. If you are in any doubt at all, call the veterinarian to verify the validity of the documents you are provided.

Visit The Humane Society's Puppy Buyer's Guide for more information.

What if I Have Already Bought a Puppy Mill Dog?

What's done is done and shouldn't reflect on your dog's future life. Make sure to have your pet thoroughly examined by a veterinarian and consult an experienced trainer if you need help addressing any puppy mill related behaviors such as crate soiling, poor socialization or resource guarding. You can find such a trainer at http://www.betterdog.com

Take Action Against Puppy Mills

Join the Humane Society of the United States in fighting puppy mills by visiting http://www.stoppuppymills.org/ to find out how you can get involved.

Get Your Dog Working

2008-11-21T08:33:00.009-06:00

So your dog is brilliant! She breezed through her Dog Training in Your Home program and is ready for her next challenge- and you're ready to give it to her. But where do you find it? There are lots of opportunities right here in Oakland County for you and your dog to stay busy. It is particularly important for working dog breeds and individuals with particularly driven temperaments to stay busy to avoid behavior problems and finding your job a job or hobby is a great way to do that.

Protection Training

Many dogs really need to feel useful to be emotionally healthy and protection training is a great way to give your dog something to do and benefit from it. Protection training sounds dangerous, but it gives your dog a firm groundwork so that he understands that it is not appropriate to be aggressive unless you say so- and the type of aggression is also proscribed. Protection training is not appropriate for unpredictable aggressive dogs, however. Ask your trainer about adding some protection training to your program once you've got the obedience down.

You can further your dog's protection prowess by joining a protection dog club or entering him in Shutzhund trials (these are often limited to German Shepherds) or joining a Shutzhund club.

Is Your Dog a Show Off?

If you have a purebred AKC registered dog who just loves to show off his obedience skills, consider joining the Oakland County Kennel Club which offers opportunities for competing in Obedience, Rally and Junior Showmanship.

Your Dog- An Athlete

If your dog is energetic, obedient and eager to please, he may find his place in one of the many available athletic pursuits for dogs. Athletic pursuits are often a good outlet for dogs who have behavioral issues like hyperactivity and chasing, so even if your dog isn't a perfect angel, consider giving one of these fun canine sports a try.

If you're dog is energetic and eager to please and enjoys jumping and running, agility may be her sport. Agility is a sport not unlike dressage for horses and features dogs, guided by their handlers, running through, over and around various obstacles in timed trials. Canine agility is truly competitive between dog/handler teams and cooperative between the athletes and their handlers. It requires the handler to guide the athlete through the obstacle course using only voice and hand signals. Ask your trainer about agility training and check out the agility events in Michigan that you can get your dog involved in.

Medium to large sized dogs who like to chase and catch may be cut out for disc dog competitions. In disc dog events, dog/handler teams are awarded points for distance, and for style in choreographed events set to music. Ask your trainer about discdog training and check out the Michigan Disc Dog Club for more information about this fun sport for you and your dog.

If your dog likes nothing more than leaping off a dock into the lake for a swim on a hot summer's day, you may want to look into dock jumping. Competitions are judged on style, distance and air and some involve catching balls and other objects in the process. For more information, visit Ultimate Air Dogs or Dock Dogs.

If your dog goes nutty for a tennis ball but will give it up upon request and not guard it, then flyball might be your sport. Flyball is a relay race involving teams of dogs running to the end of an obstacle course in turns, pressing a pad that releases a ball, catching the ball and running back to the handler to drop it. The team with the best time wins. Your trainer can get you started with this fun sport and you can find more information at the Flyball Dogs website to find a team near you!

Doing Good With Your Dog

Does your dog want to be a hero?

Is she well-behaved and calm and enjoys human interaction, she may be a good candidate for Animal Assisted Therapy. These give the elderly or people with illnesses and handicaps the opportunity to interact with animals in a positive way. If this sounds like something you and your dog could get into, contact Dr. Paws Pet Assisted Therapy headquartered out of Farmington Hills.

Is he obedient, athletic, with a high drive and great nose? Check out the National Association of Volunteer Search and Rescue Teams and Michigan Search and Rescue and talk to your trainer about turning your dog into a search and rescue dog to be called upon by police, fire and other emergency personnel in the case of a disaster or emergency when his hard earned skills will come in handy. Even if they never call you, he'll enjoy the practice and so will you!

Separation Anxiety

2008-11-20T11:16:00.017-06:00

Separation anxiety is a common problem among young dogs, but it can appear at any time triggered by a change in household or family composition. Dogs with separation anxiety will cry in high pitched yips, like those a puppy would make to get his mother's attention, and may soil his crate or damage property, especially around the door his human left from. It is important to address this issue as soon as possible so that it doesn't become a habit or you risk extensive damage to your property and your dog may hurt himself in his panic.

If your dog is already in the throws of separation anxiety panic and you are scared he'll do serious harm to himself when you're not around, have him spend the day at doggie daycare or Camp BowWow for a week or two until you get this thing under control. Let your dog's caretakers know that separation anxiety is an issue so they don't make the matter worse by giving him extra attention during the day.

Start With The Basics

1. Have your dog checked out by the vet. There are many medical issues that can exacerbate behavioral problems.

2. Make sure your dog is getting plenty of exercise. You may have to work in a morning walk. It's good for you. Alternatively, you could run him through some obedience practice first thing in the morning and get it out of the way.

3. Check your dog's food and make sure he's not getting sugars and simple carbs that could be making him extra jumpy. Do not share your morning donut or danish with your dog. You shouldn't be eating that stuff either. It goes without saying but caffeine should also not be on his menu.

Teach Your Dog to be Independant

Many small puppies develop hyper attachment and they may grow out of it by the time they are a year old. After all, the world is a very interesting place and you are just a boring human. Some, however, do not grow out of it. Hyper attachment is evident when your dog follows you around, watches you every minute, settles into your lap when you sit down and sleeps on your pillow at night. The more time your dog spends with you when you're around, the more he will miss you when you are gone. If this is your dog, ease him out of this habit. If this isn't your dog yet, follow these steps to make sure it never becomes you dog.

1. Do not let your dog sit on your lap every time you sit down. If he jumps up, tell him no and put him down by your feet. Praise him when he finally settles down. Once he's got this down, encourage him to settle further away. Provide him with a pillow or crate in the corner of the living room and teach him to lay there or place train him and encourage him to relax in his place when you're watching TV together, instead of on your lap.

2. If there are other people in the house or if you have friends that visit frequently, encourage them to help out with the dog's care, take him on walks and put him through his training. This will teach the dog that there are more cool people in the world than just you! Take your dog out to see other people and dogs as well and leave him with a friend once in awhile.

3. Make your dog do things on his own. Do not carry him outside, to his potty pad, crate or place. Teach him to go to his crate or place on command and take him outside on his leash. The more you do things for him and carry him around, the more dependant he will be on you and the worse it will be for him when you're not around.

4. Get your dog some toys he can play with without human intervention, like the Kong, the Twist & Treat, the Tug a Jug or an Intellibone. Give him the toy, tell him he's a good boy when he starts playing with it and then walk away. If he follows you, tell him no, bring him back to the toy and repeat. If this goes on for too long, just put the toy away and try again tomorrow and if that goes on for too long, you may need to try a different toy.

5. Don't let your dog sleep next to you. If you are absolutely heartbroken by the idea of making Rover sleep on the floor, or in another room, you can have him sleep at the foot of the bed, but it will be better for him in the long run if he has his own bed. You can put his bed in his crate and have him sleep there, or put his bed right next to yours. Then if you get lonely in the night you can reach out and pet him. If he's already sleeping in your bed, put his bed on your bed and let him sleep there for a few days before making the transition. Your dog's bed can be as simple as a pillow or a blanket or as elaborate as the GoPro Auxi Empire Series "Prince/Princess" Style Wrought Iron Pet Bed. Just makes sure it's in a cozy spot out of the way where you won't stagger over him when you get up for a drink in the night.

Create an Interesting and Relaxing Environment

A dog who is shut up in a cold dog pen with a cement floor and no toys every time you go away is going to be miserable and may associate you leaving with the sensation of boredom and discomfort. Make sure that your dog is comfortable with the place he will be left in, that it is warm and cozy and that there is plenty for him to do- besides eat the couch.

1. If your dog is going to be left in a crate or pen, make sure he is used to it before you leave him alone for the first time (See my article on crate training). Teach him to go into it on command and use treats to encourage him to do so. He should have some special treats or bones that he only gets while he's there and it should be comfortable with enough space to turn around in.

2. Once you've got your dog playing independently, choose some toys he really likes and only let him have them when he's home alone. Stuffed animals are not good options because he can tear them up and chew on the stuffing. A Kong is a great option. Get creative. Fill it with all sorts of interesting surprises. You can even hang it from the ceiling to give him more of a challenge.

3. Give him a special treat that he only has when you're not around. It should be something that will last a bit, like a knuckle bone or a bully stick and it should not be something that he can pull chunks off and choke on like a rawhide.

4. If your dog regularly relaxes in front of the TV or listening to music, it may help to leave the radio or TV on. If he doesn't, it won't. He's not going to be fooled into thinking some one's home, but the background noise can be relaxing if he's used to it.

Desensitize.

1. Start out by leaving your dog alone for a few minutes at a time and then returning. Don't make a big deal out of leaving or coming back. Put him in the designated place, make sure he has water, give him his special toy and treat and walk out. Wait five minutes or so and come back. If your dog is freaking out, ignore him until he calms down and then casually release him from his crate or room. Ignore him for a few more minutes and then carry on as if nothing exciting happened. Repeat 3-4 times a day.

2. Desensitize your dog to the scents, sounds and activities that usually take place just before you leave so that these won't trigger a feeling of panic in him. Pick up your keys and put them in your pocket, then sit down instead of leaving. If you have a bell on your door, open it, walk out and turn around and walk back in, or just get rid of the bell. If you always make coffee in the morning before you leave, make some coffee in the afternoon.

3. If your dog is used to your morning routine and he probably starts to get upset long before you actually leave so that by the time you walk out the door he's ready to launch into full panic mode. Switch your routine up so that he's not already freaking out when you walk out the door and he'll be much easier to distract with a toy or a special treat. If your morning usually goes like: Shower, dressed, breakfast, shoes, keys, coat, Fido in the crate, out the door. switch it up so it goes- Dressed, coat, shoes, keys, crate, breakfast, out the door.

4. Do not make a big deal about your departure. Acting sad about leaving will lead your dog to believe there is something to be sad about. Just go, matter of fact, like it's the most natural and uninteresting thing in the world- which it is and should be. When you return, again don't make a big deal. Your dog should not get extra attention or treats when you walk in the door. You should ignore him for a few minutes while you settle in and then call him over and make him sit for his attention.

Better Living Through Chemistry

Some people find help for their dogs through pharmaceuticals. I always prefer to save these for a last resort but their use is preferable to your dog hurting himself in a panic. No drug is going to help in the absence of behavior modification and training, but they can be helpful tools.

One such drug is Clomicalm, which acts by increasing serotonin levels in the brain. These hormones are the same that are released to induce feelings of love and general coziness.

Another drug that is sometimes prescribed by vets is Reconcile. This is very similar to Prozac and has been reformulated to meet the requirements for your dog.

Both medications need a few weeks to "kick in" and provide reliable relief. During that time, you should be focusing on behavior modification. As with any drug, observe your dog closely the first few times he takes his medication to make sure there are no ill effects.

A more immediate option and one that is less invasive, is the use of Dog Appeasing Pheromone or D.A.P. This a chemical that mimics the scent of a mother dog that causes her pups to feel calm and secure. You can get it in a pump spray that you can apply to your dog's crate bedding or a plug-in diffuser that you can activate in the room your dog will be left in when you leave the house.

There are also many herbal aromatherapy remedies, such as Animals Apawthecary Tranquility Blend, Anxiety By HomeoPet, ReNew Life Healthy Calm for Dogs, and Nutri-Vet 63166 Pet-Ease Natural Calming Spray for Dogs but I can't comment on how well they work. Of course, I can't comment on how well the pharmaceuticals work either. If you've used any of these, please use the "comment" feature to let me and your fellow readers know about your experience with them.

Let's Go to the Dog Park

2008-11-19T12:47:00.005-06:00

Dog parks are a great, low cost way to exercise your pet and encourage socialization. Socializing your dog from a young age can reduce many behavior problems, not the least of which is dog aggression. Dog parks also offer a great opportunity to practice off-leash training with lots of distractions. Check out one of these dog parks in Oakland County and surrounding areas. If the dog park isn't for you, check out our calendar for private doggie play dates near you.

Many of these have small dog areas. If you have a small dog, keep him safe and in the small dog area!

Lyon Oaks Dog Park
Features a 13-acre fenced enclosure with small dog area; with benches, shelter and picnic tables, and water fountain
52221 Pontiac Trail
Wixom, MI 48393
Park Information 248.437.7345
Hours: 1/2 hour before sunrise to 1/2 hour after sunset or as posted
Daily pass or Oakland County park pass required

Orion Oaks Dog Park
Offers 14-acre fenced enclosure with small dog area, including two trails, water, field area, new parking lot; and access to Lake Sixteen for swimming (sorry, dogs only!). Please note that restrooms are under construction. The planned reopening is early January.
2301 Clarkston Road
Lake Orion, MI 48360
Park Information: 248.858.0906 or 248.625.0877
Hours: 1/2 hour before sunrise to 1/2 hour after sunset or as posted
Daily pass or Oakland County park pass required.

Clinton Township Civic Center Dog Park
40700 Romeo Plank Road
Clinton Township
Information: 586-286-9336
Clinton Township residents may use the park for free.

Behnke Memorial Dog Park
A one-acre dog park located inside Memorial Park in Mount Clemens. The park features a people/pet drinking fountain, bio-bag disposal and cleanup stations, faux fire hydrant, trees, benches, and a tire obstacle course.
300 N Groesbeck Highway
Mount Clemens
Open 7am to 11pm

Northville Dog Park System
Residents must attend an education session to be eligable to bring their dogs to Northville's two dogparks.
Cady Street Dog Park
215 W Cady Street
Northville residents only

Community Dog Park
Five Mile Road West of Beck
Open to non-residents
Information: 248-349-0203

In Burdi Park at Pauline Street & 12 Mile Road
Warren
Information:

Karner Farm Off Leash Dog Area
5911 Halstead Road
West Bloomfield
Information: 248-451-1900

Canine to Five Indoor Dog Park
3443 Cass Avenue, Detroit
313-831-3647
http://www.caninetofivedetroit.com/dogpark.php

The Economic Crisis Hits Animals Too

2008-11-19T09:18:00.006-06:00

We see evidence of the home foreclosure crisis everywhere. There are few blocks in Michigan without multiple "For Sale" signs in front of them and most of us know someone who can't sell their house even though they may have moved out of state in search of work months ago. Foreclosures hit pets too. 18 cats and a dog were recently found in a Grand Blanc storage unit because. Their owner's home was foreclosed and, she says, she had noplace else to keep them. The cats had upper respiratory infections and every one was euthanized, but the dog, Leo, is now up for adoption. The owner agreed to surrender him to animal control to avoid criminal charges, but she wants him back so he can come live with her and her son. In their car.

Many shelters are overcrowded due in part to the economic crisis and even purebreds are being surrendered or abandoned by once-loving owners who can no longer afford to care for them and many shelters are no overcrowded. The Humane Society is over capacy with cats and at capacity with dogs and as this article illustrates, financial hardship of their previous owners is a major contributor to the situation.

The Oakland Pet Adoption Center, located at 1700 Brown Road in Auburn Hills has more cats than it can handle and its foster homes are also overcrowded. They are desperate need of supply donations and foster homes for cats and kittens especially. They have greatly reduced adoption fees and held many recent promotional events in an effort to help alleviate the overcrowding. Residents of Oakland County are encouraged to contact the Oakland Pet Fund to find out how they can help through volunteering and donations.

My Dog is a Potty Mouth

2008-11-19T07:54:00.006-06:00

All About Copraphagy
(That is, poop-eating.)

Why they do it
There are a number of triggers that can drive a dog to munch on poo. As with many behavioral problems, this one warrants a trip to the vet. One of the least common, but worth concern, is a B-vitamin deficit. This is easy enough to address, just make sure your dog is getting a good multi-vitamin with B-complex in it. Dogs may also take to poop-eating if they are lacking certain digestive enzymes. Your vet can prescribe medication to address this problem.

Any medical problem that causes blood to be shed in feces will make that feces more attractive to a poop-eating dog. Bring in a sample of the feces that your dog finds delectable (whether its his own or someone else's) so your vet can rule out parasites and other issues.

Some dogs resort to copraphagy when they are simply hungry. In this case, reassessing the amount of food your pet gets or switching up his feeding schedule may solve the problem. Pay attention to when the behavior happens most often compared to your dog's feeding schedule.
Does she get fed in the morning and eat poo on her evening romp? Maybe she needs an afternoon snack. You could split her total food intake between morning and evening or adjust the amount she's getting fed. Growing pups may need their food intake re-evaluated frequently. Sometimes changing your brand of dogfood helps as well. Many commercial dogfoods (even some that market themselves as being "high end") are really quite terrible for dogs and wreak all sorts of havok on their digestive systems which can lead to many issues, but that's an article for another day. Talk to your vet about the best food foryour dog.

Occasionally, when a dog is improperly house trained, he can make the connection between feces in his vicinity and being punished. He may then eat the feces the minute it's noticed (or produced) in order to prevent the punishment he fears will follow.

Once a dog discovers that eating poo gets a reaction from you, he may do it just for the joy of watching you say "Eww Fido! That's gross!". It is important to address the behavior with a quick leash correction and a firm "No" without getting all excited about it. Or better yet, distract your dog the moment he shows interest in the poo so that it never becomes an issue.

Some dogs simply eat poo- and couches- and other things - out of boredom or anxiety.

A dog that is left in a confined area for an extended period of time and not cleaned up after regularly may eat his or her own poo in order to keep his living area clean. Forcing a dog to live in his own poo can cause all sorts of psychological issues.

Steps to eliminate Copraphagy:

1. Take your dog to the vet along with a sample of the stool he finds most tasty (his own, the cat's, the other dog's, etc.).
2. Make sure your dog is on a nutritionally balanced diet. Talk to your vet about vitamin supplements and feeding schedules.
3. Make sure your dog has plenty of yummy bones and bully treats, maybe a Kong and a Twist n Treat or Tug a Jug to keep him occupied when you can't entertain him. And make sure he gets plenty of exercise to relieve stress and to encourage him to nap instead of being bored.
4. Keep your dog's potty area clean and make sure his potty area and his living area are not the same.
5. If your dog makes a move toward a poopy snack, move away at a brisk pace and run him through some tricks with plenty of treats to get his mind off of it.

Supportive products

The following products claim to make poop taste bad (implying that it tastes good?) therefore discouraging dogs from eating it. I have found, however, that what works for one dog doesn't work for most dogs and what works for most dogs doesn't work for mine! So give these a shot and let me know how they work.

Potty Mouth by Four Paws
8in1 Deter - Coprophagia Treatment
and
For-Bid

You can also try adding pumpkin or meat tenderizer to your dog's food but watch the sodium content. The main ingredient in the meat tenderizer and most of the commercial poo-flavoring food additives is MSG. You could also go out and put a few drops of Tabasco on all the poo in the yard before letting him out. This will teach him that eating poo runs the risk of an uncomfortable burning sensation, and may put a stop to it.

When to Leave it Alone

Female dogs naturally eat the feces of their pups while they are in the nest. If this is the case of your dog, leave her be. If the habit continues after the pups have left the nest, you can address it then.

Have you had this problem with your dog? Let us know what you did about it.

Crate Training without Trauma

2008-11-17T15:02:00.007-06:00

Crate training is a somewhat controversial topic among some pet owners. There are those who feel that it is cruel to lock a dog in a cage. But crate training actually satisfies a dog's instinctive desire to find a safe, enclosed place to spend time. Many people who crate train their dogs soon find that their companion goes to his crate on his own when he is nervous or frightened or just wants to relax away from the people for awhile. For each one of these though, there is a dog who is terrified of his crate, who fights while going in and spends the entire time inside it trying to get out. With proper training even these dogs can come to see their crate as a safe haven.

The Benefits of Crate Training

Crate training has many benefits. Providing your dog with his own den retreat gives him a haven in times of stress. This can prevent or help lesson many behaviors related to anxiety. A dog who is kept in his crate when his human pack is not at home is less prone to separation anxiety and will not get into trouble while they are gone. A dog who is crated in the car will not disturb you while you are driving and is less likely to be harmed in case of an accident than a dog who is not crated and once you get to your destination, the crate becomes a safe haven for your dog in an possibly unfamiliar situation. Since dogs instinctively urinate and defecate away from their den area, a do who is crate trained is also easier to housebreak.

But My Dog Hates His Crate

The trick to successfully crate training a dog is to associate the crate with positive feelings rather than negative ones. If a dog is forced into a crate, sent there as a punishment, left there for long periods of time and picked on (perhaps by mischievous children) while he is in the crate, the dog is not going to like his crate. If the crate is too small or located in a drafty area or isolated from the rest of the household, he's also not going to like it. If scary things happen every time he's put in the crate- he's put in the back of the car, he's left alone, someone makes loud noises, strangers come over, etc. he's not going to like his crate. All of these things can happen to a well crate trained dog, but they can't be the only things that happen. Good things must happen to. Unfortunately, it often takes just one early experience to ruin a crate for a dog and a lot of work to make a dog who hates his crate love it again.

Your Dog Can Love His Crate

If you got your dog from a shelter or a pet store he has probably already spent some time in a crate and he may be used to it, or he may have developed negative associations with it already. Whatever the case, your dog can come to love his crate pretty quickly if you follow these basic guidelines.

Choose the right crate. The crate should be just big enough for your dog to stand up and sit down (note that many dogs are a bit taller when they sit) and turn around and lay down in. A crate that is too big doesn't give that den-like feeling and a crate that is too small will leave you with a stiff, unhappy dog. If you're dog is a puppy, you may wish to get a crate that will be big enough for him when he is full grown. Many larger crates come with dividers so that you can section off a small portion of the crate for your puppy and make it larger as he grows. If you put your small dog in a giant crate during the day, you should still train him to a smaller traveling crate which you can place inside the larger crate while you are at home. You may choose to use a wire crate or a plastic crate. If you use a wire crate, you may wish to put a blanket or other cover over it to give it a more den-like quality. If your dog tears at this blanket, remove it. You should also invest in food dishes and water bottles that fasten to the crate itself.

Place the crate in a comfortable spot. Once your dog is used to his crate you can move it about the house as you please but to start it should be in a place where you spend time, not removed from the household. The spot should not be in direct sunlight or right over a heating vent and it should be well ventilated, but not drafty.

Introduce the crate in a unhurried, pleasant way. The first time your dog goes in the crate should not be the first time you leave him alone for the day. Introduce the crate on a day when you can spend some time on it.

Establish firm rules relating to the crate. Let everyone in the household and all visitors know that when the dog is in the crate he must not be bothered. No banging on the crate, no running back and forth past the crate and no poking the dog through the crate; though it is okay to occasionally toss a treat into the crate.

Be patient while your dog gets used to his crate. Follow the steps below to make your dog love his crate.

To Crate Train Your Dog

It will take 3-5 days to train your dog to love his crate. If you must leave him alone in the house before he is ready, consider taking him with you, having someone dog-sit or taking him to doggie day care or Camp BowWow for the day to avoid his making negative associations with the crate before the positive associations are firmly in place.

Exercise 1 "Go in your crate"

Allow your dog to skip a meal so he's good and hungry. Have his usual amount of dog food on hand to use as a reward and some of his favorite treats.
Sit on a chair next to the crate. Open it and call the dog to you. Pet him and praise him.
Toss a treat into the crate and say "Go in your crate". If he hesitates give him a little nudge in the rear to get him moving into the crate. If he resists strongly, you may need a better treat.
As soon as he's in the crate, tell him how wonderful he is while feeding him kibble alternated with treats. When he hops back out, stop feeding him.
Repeat 10-20 times
Now say "Go in your crate", but don't throw a treat in there. If he goes in on his own, tell him how wonderful he is and give him lots of his favorite treats. If he doesn't, give him a nudge and then praise and treat him.
Repeat 10-20 times
By now your dog is probably close to full and you're both probably a little tired so take a break.

Repeat exercise 1 twice a day until your dog will go into the crate when you ask him to without being lured or nudged. This will probably take 2-3 days. Don't be surprised if this soon becomes a game!

Exercise 2 "Eat in your crate"
Begin this exercise once your dog will go in his crate on command without nudging.

Fasten a food bowl to the inside of the crate. At feeding time each day, fill the food dish while your dog watches. Make him sit and stay until you are done placing it inside the crate then tell your dog to "go in your crate". When he goes in, close the door.
Let him stay in there with his food for fifteen minutes while you linger nearby doing whatever you do. Ignore any protests.
After 15 minutes, regardless of whether he has eaten, open the crate and remove the food. Some dogs will resist eating in the crate with the door closed at first. Don't worry, he won't let himself starve. Simply take the food away and try again at his next scheduled feeding. Leave the crate open.
Repeat at every feeding time forever.

Exercise 2-A "Chew in your Crate"
Begin this exercise once your dog will go in his crate on command without nudging. This should be done between feedings in conjunction with exercise 2.

Find a chew your dog just loves. I recommend bully sticks and smoked knuckle bones which are particularly good for this because they stink and you probably don't want him running around the house with them. You can also use a Kong if you prefer. Let your dog sniff the chew and then toss it in his crate.
Tell your dog "Go in your crate"
When he goes in don't praise him till he starts working on his chew, then tell him how great he is.
If he brings the chew out of his crate, toss it back in. If it starts becoming a fetch game, take it away and try again later.
Now, forever after, your dog never gets a chewy (or Kong) unless he is in his crate! If he goes to his crate on his own and looks up at you expectantly, praise him and give him his chewy. Don't be afraid to mix it up if there's more than one kind of chewy he really likes or give him a bully stick or smoked knuckle bone one day, a Kong the next, a Twist & Treat once in awhile, etc. The idea is that you're giving something he's going to enjoy that will last him awhile.

NOTE: Do not use rawhide, stuffed animals or any sort of toy that the dog can tear apart into chunks and swallow or long bones that can splinter. Eventually you will be leaving your dog alone in the crate and unsupervised and you won't be able to help him if he chokes or stop him from swallowing pieces of stuffing.

Exercise 3 "Stay in your Crate"
Begin this exercise once your dog is happily chewing in his crate with the door open.

Tell your dog "Go in your crate" and give him the chewy (or Kong) once he is in there.
Close the door.
Leave the door closed for 10 minutes or so regardless of his protestations (he'll probably start grumbling after he gets bored with his chewy, realize he's being ignored and lay down for a nap. )
After the designated time, open the door in a matter of fact way, don't fuss or praise him as he comes out of the crate. Remove his chewy or toy from the crate and put it away. He only gets it when the door is closed now and forever!
Repeat 3-4 times a day. If 20 minutes isn't a problem, leave him for 30, then 45, then an hour.

Once you've got your dog used to being alone in his crate for an hour, you should be able to leave him there all day!

Some Crate Training Tips

If your dog is freaking out in his crate; barking, howling, whimpering, etc. wait until he is quiet (even if it's just a split second while he's catching his breath) before you open the door, but let him out as soon as you can. Don't talk to him in the meantime, just ignore him. We don't want him to get the idea that he'll be rewarded for whining but we also don't want him to panic in his crate!

If your dog is soiling his crate out of spite (versus out of desperation because he wasn't taken out to potty on time) check to make sure the crate isn't too big. It should be just big enough for him to stand up, sit, turn around and lay down in. If it's the right size, remove any bedding. Most dogs don't like lying in their own urine and feces. If there's bedding they can hide it underneath and lay on top. Once he's happier in his crate you can give him his bedding back.

Help! My Dog is Hyper!

2008-11-10T12:29:00.002-06:00

If your dog is literally bouncing off the walls and furniture instead of paying attention during training time, you may despair of ever teaching him anything! If he's jumping all over everything and everybody, you may be afraid he'll hurt himself or a family member and your fear is not misplaced. Hyperactivity can segue into aggression very easily. While some dogs are just a little high energy, especially as puppies, there are many things you can do to bring him down to Earth. Chances are your puppy will settle down by the time he's two years old but some breeds are hyper for life.

Exercise
Most dogs do not get enough exercise and many breeds, such as herding dogs and hunting dogs, were bred to be able to withstand long days of vigorous physical activity. If they don't get that exercise through work and play, they may release it through obnoxious behavior instead. Eventually, they may "grow out" of the hyperactivity by gaining a bunch of weight and slowing down just like overweight people do but this isn't good for your dog. Just like people, excess weight is hard on the dog's heart and other organs and joints. To ensure that your dog gets enough exercise, take him for a brisk walk at least once a day and take him to the park for a long game of catch at least once a week. You may also wish to join a Meetup Group that will allow you and your dog to get together with other dogs and their owners for socialization and exercise. No human can exercise a dog as well as another dog can!

If your dog is stuck in the house all day while you're at work, consider leaving him at Camp BowWow or at PetSmart's Doggie DayCamp once or twice a week (or every day!). When you pick him up at the end of the day he'll be tired and happy and frequent trips to fun places like that will help get rid of any car anxiety your dog might have.

On those days that your dog isn't at day camp, provide him with lots of distractions to keep him busy. A Kong, stuffed with wet dogfood, ground meat or another delicious treat will keep him busy for awhile. A Twist and Treat full of kibble or dog biscuits will keep him occupied for a bit as well and the Tug A Jug is also a neat way to keep your dog busy and fed all at once. Don't be afraid to feed him all of his meals out of these toys. Hide them around his play area so he can make a game out of locating his lunch.

Hyper active dogs also tend to chew a lot. Some owners complain that they chew through their bones and toys so fast it hardly seems worth it to buy them. Pressed rawhide lasts a little longer, but it can come off in chunks that can get stuck in your dog's gut causing painful (and deadly!) blockages. (This is rare, but possible) I recommend Bully Sticks. They last awhile, they're completely edible and digestible and uh... they smell horrible. Dogs love them. I also recommend smoked knuckle bones. They don't splinter like long bones do, they last awhile, they also stink and dogs love them. Griffin gets either a Bully Stick or a knuckle bone at bedtime and it helps him relax.

Diet
Just like a child, a dog's behavior can be affected by what he eats. Not all dogs have issues, but some dogs are very sensitive to carbohydrates and sugars in their food and some artificial colorings and flavors have been blamed for causing hyperactivity as well. If you think this may be a problem, try switching your dog to an all natural food like Wellness or Canidae or even a grain free dog food like Raw Instinct, or Core. Some people prefer to prepare their dog's food themselves and this is a great option if you have the time and you do the research to make sure your dog is getting the nutrition he needs. Sodium can also affect your dog's activity level. Make sure you don't give your dog "people food" full of salt, such as potato chips, french fries and packaged food. It's not good for you either!

Training
Many times a dog's hyperactivity issues are cries for attention (just like kids) and giving him something to do will help out a great deal. Basic training is important, and you can get that at www.betterdog.com (If you're in Michigan, ask for Robin!) or you could take classes. Remember though, whether you get lessons at home or in a classroom, you must practice every day if you want your dog to actually learn. Even 15 minutes a day will bring about a huge improvement. Besides obedience, hyper dogs love to learn new tricks. Try 101 Dog Tricks: Step by Step Activities to Engage, Challenge, and Bond with Your Dog for ideas.

Health
Hyperactivity can be caused by health problems, particularly related to the thyroid. Be sure to check with your vet and have a blood test done on your dog to make sure that there isn't a correctable physical problem causing his issues.

Dogs in the News

2008-10-06T11:47:00.002-05:00

The Top doggie news today is the release of Beverly Hills Chihuahua which seems to be making a smash at the box office. I might go see this at the cheap theatre in a couple of weeks,but no one in my family is excited enough to pay premium movie prices for it. It looks cute.

In other show biz/doggie news, Nick at Nite hosted their first annual Fido Awards yesterday with a bulldog named Gabe winning the day with such remarkable tricks as toilet flushing and skate boarding. Buddy, the German Shepherd to dialed 911 when his owner had a seizure just a few months ago was given the Hero Award.

A golden retriever named Pepper found his way home this weekend after travelling 400 miles from Atlanta Georgia to St Petersburg (Virginia??) where he was taken in by some folks at a travel agency, vetted and scanned and his microchip discovered. He's been gone since Christmas.

It reminds me of a dog named Chile who we discovered in our back yard when we moved into our new house two years ago. Once we'd calmed him down enough so that we could handle him, we walked him to the vet 3 miles away because there was no getting him in the car. Sure enough, he was microchipped and his family was ecstatic and so was he! He'd been missing three months and had travelled over 50 miles.

The moral of this story, folks: Have your dogs microchipped!

Bring Your Dog to Church Day

2008-10-05T11:33:00.002-05:00

A church in North Weymouth, Massechusettes is opening its doors to dogs and other pets and is offering a blessing of animals today. According to an article in the Boston Globe, the Reverend Rachel Bickford, herself the mom of a menagere of furbabies, was inspired by psalm 148 and 150 which says 'Let all wild animals, creeping things and flying birds give God praise.' and 'Praise the Lord, let everything that breathes, praise the Lord.' respectively.

Apparently inviting dogs to church isn't as easy as it sounds. The insurance company originally forbid the attendance of pitbulls, but Rev Bickford was able to change their minds by showing them a little more green.

The Doggie First Aid Kit

2008-09-26T11:59:00.003-05:00

What would you do if you caught your dog eating poison, or if he stepped on a piece of glass while on a walk or got hurt in a fight with another animal? Are you prepared? Dogs and people have different needs and are likely to have different types of injuries. Keeping a first aid kit on hand just for your dog could mean the difference of life or death for your dog, or simply a major difference in stress level for you, should your dog get into something he shouldn't. Here are some ideas for things to keep in your doggie first aid kit and, more importantly, how to use them.

Gauze pads (4x4 inches)
Gauze pads can be used to clean or cover a wound, to apply pressure to stop bleeding. Keep many of these.

Styptic powder, or a styptic pencil
These are used to stop bleeding. If you cut your dog's nails yourself, you've probably discovered how wonderful these things are. Quick Stop is a popular brand name. Corn starch will work in a pinch.

Scissors or clippers
It is much easier to assess and clean a wound if you are able to clear away the hair first. This is the first thing your vet will do when you bring your dog in, but if there is a necessary delay, you may want to do this yourself.

Witch Hazel Extract
Witch hazel is good for cleaning inflamed areas. It helps to reduce swelling and itching and since it is generally in an alcohol carrier, it also kills germs.

Eye Wash
You can get bottles of saline solution eye wash at your pharmacy. If your dog has something in his eye, it is important to wash out his eyes immediately. Skunks often aim for the eyes by default.

Self adhering ace bandage
Use this to cover wounds on your way to the vet.

Benedryl Tablets, 25 mg
Use these when your dog has an allergic reaction. Look for itchy skin, watery eyes, sneezing. Also useful for bee stings. You can give your dog 1 mg per pound per 8 hours.

Buffered Aspirin
Aspirin can be given for pain and fever and as an anti-inflammatory. If your pain has chronic pain and inflammation, you should as your vet about Rimadyl instead as it is better for dogs. Give aspirin with food to prevent stomach upset. Give 5 mg per pound per 12 hours. Never give a dog Tylenol.

Syrup of Ipecac
Give 1 teaspoon per 10 pounds bodyweight to induce vomiting. Do not induce vomiting if your dog is comatose, or has swallowed sharp objects, acids or corrosives. Contact your emergency vet or poison control immediately.

Charcoal Tablets
Charcoal tablets are used to absorb poisons after vomiting has been induced. You can get charcoal tablets specially made for dogs. Follow the instructions on the package.

CatLax
This is a laxitive made for cats that works just as well for dogs. In cats it is used to help them pass hairballs. It can also help dogs pass things such as yummy garbage.

Rectal Thermometer
The normal temperature for a dog is between 100.5 abd 102 degrees. Have a helper give your dog's head a big hug while you insert a well-lubed thermometer about an inch into the rectum for about 2 minutes

Baking Soda
Moisten baking soda and apply the paste to bee stings and splinters to help draw them out.

Tweezers
Dogs stick their noses in lots of things. Tweezers will help you remove these things from their noses, and paw pads.

Needle Nosed Pliers
If you live in an area where your dog may run into a porcupine, you'll find pliers will be more helpful than tweezers. If you can get ahold of hemostats, these are even more useful.

Pedialyte and Chicken Broth
Pedialyte is a hydrating solution for infants, sort of like Gatorade with less sugar. If your dog is having trouble holding food down, has diahhrea, has been exposed to extreme temporatures or is showing signs of dehydration, give him Pedialyte mixed with low sodium chicken broth (beef if he's allergic to chicken) and call your vet.

Slip Leash
This leash slips on and off the dog's head without needing to be attached by a collar. It comes in handy when your dog is out of control because you can use it to "lasso" him.

A Muzzle
Your dog may love you, but if you're hurting him in your effort to help him, you may wish to have a muzzle on him. Let's not make things worse by sending you to the hospital too!

Paperwork and Phone Numbers
Keep your dog's medical records, liscencing information and rabies certificate in a place where you are sure you can find them quickly. Keep the number of the emergency vet and the poison control center handy too. We keep them on our fridge.

On Dogs and Chocolate

2008-09-22T09:47:00.004-05:00

You've heard the warnings- "don't give your dog chocolate, it's poison." But you've also got that friend who says "Oh my dog eats chocolate all the time." So what's the deal?

The truth is, chocolate poisoning occurs differently in different dogs and varies according to the size of the dog, his temperment and the kind of chocolate consumed. The toxic substance in chocolate is theobromine, a caffein like substance that can be toxic to humans in large quantities as well. Chocolate also contains caffein which is also toxic to dogs.

Both of these substances are addicting and intoxicating to dogs. Chocolate is doggie crack. It tastes good, it smells divine, it gets them stoned and they will always want more. It increases neurological activity, raises their heart rate and makes them hyper and hyper sensitive. This "high" just like people highs, is a mild poisoning. A dog under the influence of chocolate is more difficult to control and more likely to bite if presented with an uncomfortable situation. Just like people on drugs. Of course dogs (like some people) have no sense of when enough is enough. If some is good, more must be better and overdoses are not uncommon. How much is too much chocolate? 125-250 mgs/kg of theobromine per pound of bodyweight will kill a dog. 50 mgs per pound will cause a toxic reaction. Less may, depending on the dog.

Different types of chocolate have different theobromine levels. While your average sized dog can probably eat a full sized milk chocolate candy bar, a cocoa bean or two will make him very sick. Milk chocolate contains about 50 mgs of theobromine per ounce while unsweetened baking chocolate contains 500 mgs per ounce. Cocoa powder, about 800 mgs per ounce and cocoa beans, about a thousand. So, while a "fun sized" Snickers bar isn't likely to kill your dog, no matter how small it is, (at less than 20mgs it still might make a teacup yorkie sick) a full sized Hershey's Special Dark at almost 1500 mgs will kill a yorkie, chuhuahua or pomeranian outright and could even make a 50 pounder pretty ill or at the very least, stoned. But don't take this as a guideline. Remember, 125-250 per pound is the lethal dose in a healthy dog and 50 mgs per pound will make him quite ill. A dog that's already high strung or has heart problems could die from a much lower dose.

After your dog eats chocolate, the first thing you'll notice is that he is hyper and difficult to control. He might roll around on the ground more than usual and disregard your commands more than usual. He might lay down and get back up again, walk around in urgent circles and bark at nothing more often than usual. He is also more likely to get irritable and growl and bite. Or worse, bite without growling. This "high" can last for 48 hours.

If he is overdosing, he may or may not be more thirsty than normal. His urination will increase and he may have diarrhea and vomiting. Basically, he will act like he is feeling like you felt after you drank two pots of coffee in an effort to finish your final paper in college and a third pot to get through class the next day and smoked two packs of cigarettes in the process. (Some of you get sick thinking about it, some of you can handle it just fine. Remember that dogs differ this way too.) This can progress to cardiac arrhythmias and seizures.

If you catch your dog eating chocolate, you should induce vomiting (with syrup of Ipecac) and give him lots of water (Sweeten it with some chicken broth to encourage him to drink it.) , some charcoal tablets and call your vet. Depending on the amount, your vet may tell you to just watch him or ask you to bring him in.

If your dog shows signs of chocolate poisoning, but you didn't catch him eating chocolate and thus have no way of knowing how much he ate, take him to the vet right away. Once toxic symptoms show up (diarrhea, vomiting, arrhythmia, etc.) it's out of your hands and in the vet's.

A final warning. There are more sources of theobromine than candy. Cocoa mulch is popular in some locations because it has a great texture and smells fabulous. Keeping your dog securely in your own yard and, if you use cocoa mulch, away from your gardens will prevent him from ever coming in contact with the stuff, but it's good to be aware it's out there.